Copper peptides are among the best-studied cosmetic peptides, and the name most Canadians search for is GHK-Cu. Here is what a copper peptide serum is, how to use one, and how to tell a cosmetic from something you should not put near a needle.
Copper peptide serums at our pharmacy
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What is GHK-Cu?
GHK-Cu is a tripeptide, three amino acids (glycine, histidine and lysine), bound to a copper ion. It occurs naturally in human plasma and was first described in the 1970s. On an ingredient list it appears as Copper Tripeptide-1. Serums usually contain it at low concentrations and are recognizable by their blue colour.
The same ingredient goes by several names. On a label you may see Copper Tripeptide-1 or copper peptide GHK-Cu; in a search box, people type “GHK-Cu peptide Canada”, “GHK Cu peptide Canada”, “copper peptides GHK-Cu” or “copper peptide GHK Cu”. They all mean this one tripeptide. What changes the legal picture is not the spelling but the product: a cream or serum for the skin is a cosmetic, a vial for injection is not authorized.
Topical GHK-Cu: serum, cream or scalp product
Topical GHK-Cu means copper peptides applied to the skin or scalp, which is the only way they are legally sold in Canada. GHK Cu copper peptides come in three main formats:
- A copper peptides serum. Light and water-based, usually blue, applied after cleansing and before moisturizer. Most people start here.
- A GHK Cu cream. The peptide in a moisturizing base, which suits dry skin and replaces one step. Concentrations are often lower than in a serum.
- A scalp serum or tonic. A thin liquid with a dropper, designed to reach the scalp through the hair.
Whichever you choose, look for Copper Tripeptide-1 in the ingredient list and an opaque, airtight pack.
What copper peptides do in skincare
As a cosmetic ingredient, copper peptides are used to improve the look of skin: smoother texture, a firmer appearance and less visible fine lines. Laboratory studies and a small number of human cosmetic studies support these uses. In Canada a cosmetic may only claim to change how skin or hair looks. A product that claims to heal wounds or regrow hair is making a drug claim and would need a drug authorization.
How to use a copper peptide serum
- Cleanse, then apply a few drops to dry skin, once a day to start.
- Moisturize on top. In the morning, finish with sunscreen.
- Separate it from strong acids. Many manufacturers advise against layering copper peptides directly with pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) or strong exfoliating acids. Use those at a different time of day.
- Patch test first on the inner forearm for 24 hours, particularly if you have sensitive skin.
- Give it time. Cosmetic results, where they appear, take 8 to 12 weeks.
Copper peptides for hair growth: what the evidence shows
Most copper peptides hair products are scalp serums sold as cosmetics, and a cosmetic may only claim to improve the look and feel of hair. The interest in copper peptides for hair growth comes mainly from laboratory and animal studies; well-designed human trials are few and small, so evidence that they regrow hair is limited and early. If you try one, treat it as a scalp-care step, use it for at least three months before you judge it, and keep any treatment your clinician has recommended. If thinning hair is your concern, read our guide to peptides for hair growth, which sets out what is a cosmetic, what is a licensed non-prescription drug, and when to see a clinician.
Well-known copper peptide serums in Canada
The Ordinary, a Canadian brand, sells a multi-peptide serum with 1% copper peptides, and several pharmacy and specialist skincare brands offer their own. When you compare them, look at the INCI list for Copper Tripeptide-1, the stated concentration, the packaging (dark or opaque bottles protect the formula) and the rest of the formula, not only the headline ingredient.
Cosmetic serum, not injection. GHK-Cu sold in vials for injection, alone or in blends, is not an authorized drug in Canada, and Health Canada has seized such products. Nothing on this page refers to injectable use. Our pages on injectable GHK-Cu blends and peptides in Canada explain why.
GHK-Cu peptide side effects on the skin
As a cosmetic ingredient at the concentrations used in serums and creams, GHK-Cu is generally well tolerated. The GHK-Cu peptide side effects people report with cosmetic use are the ordinary signs of irritation: redness, stinging, itching, dryness or small bumps where the product was applied. Often the cause is something else in the formula, such as fragrance, a preservative or an acid, rather than the peptide itself.
- Patch test on the inner forearm for 24 hours before the first use on your face or scalp.
- Start once a day, and add a second application only if your skin is comfortable.
- Stop and rinse if you get burning, swelling or a rash that does not settle, and show the ingredient list to a pharmacist.
- Do not apply to broken skin, and keep it out of the eyes.
These points apply to topical products only. Injectable GHK-Cu has not been assessed or authorized, so nothing here describes it.
Who should check with a pharmacist first
Ask before use if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, have a copper-metabolism condition such as Wilson’s disease, use prescription skin treatments, or have broken or inflamed skin. You can ask a pharmacist here.
Are copper peptides legal in Canada?
Yes, as a cosmetic ingredient in creams and serums. Cosmetics sold in Canada must be notified to Health Canada. Injectable GHK-Cu is not authorized.
What is GHK-Cu peptide used for?
In cosmetics, GHK-Cu (Copper Tripeptide-1) is used to improve the appearance of skin texture, firmness and fine lines, and in scalp serums for the look of hair.
Can I use copper peptides with retinol or vitamin C?
Many people use copper peptides and retinol in the same routine. Manufacturers commonly advise using pure vitamin C and strong acids at a different time of day. Follow your product’s directions.
Can I use copper peptides every day?
Most serums are designed for once- or twice-daily use. Start once a day and follow the label.
Do copper peptides regrow hair?
That has not been established. Copper peptide scalp products are cosmetics and may only claim to improve how hair looks and feels.
Reviewed by our pharmacist-in-charge. Cosmetics are not intended to treat or prevent any disease.